Insider's Guide

Backgammon, or shesh besh in Hebrew, is a wildly popular pastime around the Middle East. With a cultish following similar to that for chess in Western countries, backgammon differs in that it is less calculating, more social, and extremely fast-paced, with the black and white chips clattering around the board like artillery fire. Old men play at the beach and in cafes, but it’s a kids’ game too. No one is too good for backgammon in Israel. It’s easy to learn and increasingly interesting to its loyal gamers. According to some, backgammon is one way Israelis blow off the steam of living in a tense country constantly engaged in war. And like military conflict, backgammon demands both quick-witted skill and a whole lot of luck.

As the sun sets on Friday night, young Tel Avivans emerge from their apartments and head to what is popularly known as Drum Beach. Drum Beach is on the southern end of the beachfront behind the Dolphinarium complex and near Chinky’s Bar. Its name comes from the lively drum circle that occurs there every Friday night. Dreadlocked Israelis, many of them back from their jaunts around India, gather to drum, dance, mingle, and even juggle fire. Interested participants can just walk down the beach toward Jaffa and the vibrating beat.

Nalaga’at is a one-of-its-kind center for the deaf and blind. It consists of a theater, restaurant, café, and educational workshop space organized by the deaf and blind community for the community at large. It serves not only to integrate disadvantaged members of society, but to educate others about the lives of the deaf and blind. At Blackout Restaurant, blind waiters serve customers who eat their meals in a pitch-black room. The experience is meant to heighten the taste, smell, and touch senses while bringing awareness to the daily experiences of the blind. Cafe Kapish does the same with deaf wait staff, encouraging its customers to refrain from speaking and learn to communicate in new and creative ways. The theater runs various performances by the Deaf-blind Acting Ensemble. Nalaga’at literally means "please touch."

Tel Aviv offers enough bars and clubs to keep party-seekers dancing until they develop arthritis and have to retire. To add to the diversity of mega clubs, hipster hangouts, and trendy dance bars, "secret" parties also take place in private locations. Bring along a Hebrew translator to check out the bulletin boards, or ask around on Sheinkin Street and in music shops. Israelis have been fascinated with dance since Israeli folk dance was a national pastime in the early days of the country, and they still dance at every chance they get. Keep an ear out for street parties and alternative dance parties, where groups get together for activities like "contact" dance.